Waxed Amaryllis: What to Do After Blooming and How to Give It a Second Life

During the winter holidays, waxed amaryllis became one of the most popular interior decorations and gifts. This flower captivates with its minimalism because it needs no pot, no watering, and bright blooms emerge directly from a colorful wax ball. However, many people rush to discard the plant after the flowers fade, assuming it’s a disposable decoration or artificial product.

Beneath the aesthetic wax coating lies a living, robust bulb that, with proper care, can delight you for decades. To successfully save the plant, you need to understand its specific life cycle.

Why Is Amaryllis Waxed?

Before beginning the rescue operation, it’s worth understanding what this mysterious waxed amaryllis actually is. It’s a specially prepared amaryllis (Hippeastrum) whose bulb, still in a dormant state, stores enough moisture and nutrients to complete one full blooming season without any external environmental help.

The wax serves not only an aesthetic function but also acts as a sealant, preventing the moisture inside the bulb from evaporating. While this seems like a technological miracle, it causes the plant tremendous stress, as it cannot develop roots and gradually depletes its internal tissues to complete exhaustion.

If you leave the bulb in this coating after blooming, it will simply dry out or, in more humid conditions, begin to rot from the inside. Your help is vital immediately after the decorative phase ends.

First Step: Liberation from the Wax Shell

The crucial stage begins when the last flower fades, and the plant shows the first signs of fatigue. First, cut off the flower stalk with a sharp knife, leaving about two to three centimeters above the bulb’s top, but never touch the emerging leaves.

Wax removal is best done at room temperature so the wax isn’t too brittle. Usually, beneath the wax layer, you’ll find not only plastic but also a metal stand that helps the flower stand stable without additional support. It’s best to carefully score the wax vertically and peel it off in sections, trying not to damage the bulb’s surface or sensitive base. Under the wax, you often find a thin layer of paper or plastic protecting the plant from hot wax during production—this must also be thoroughly removed so the bulb can breathe through its tissues again.

Root Inspection and First Planting

After removing the wax, you’ll see that waxed amaryllis looks somewhat different from regular bulbs—its base is usually completely dry, and the roots are trimmed to the base or completely withered. This is the greatest challenge for the plant, as it needs to quickly restore water circulation and begin feeding itself.

Before planting, you can soak the bulb’s base in lukewarm water for a few hours, but be extremely careful that water doesn’t reach the bulb’s upper part or areas between the scales—only the very base where new roots will form should be soaked. Some gardeners recommend adding a growth stimulator or potassium permanganate solution to the water, which helps disinfect any wounds from wax removal and stimulates cell regeneration.

For planting, choose a heavy, stable ceramic pot, as an amaryllis grows huge flowers and long leaves. The lightweight plastic containers simply wouldn’t withstand the center of gravity. The substrate must be well-draining and very fertile—special mixes for houseplants with plenty of peat and perlite work best.

When planting the amaryllis bulb, it’s crucial to avoid a common mistake and bury the entire bulb in soil. At least a third or even half should proudly remain above the soil surface. This protects the plant from excess moisture accumulating at the neck, which causes root rot. Gently press the soil around the bulb so it holds firmly. Water, but not directly on the bulb—around it.

Energy Storage and Summer Vacation Outdoors

Most growers make the mistake of expecting waxed amaryllis to bloom again immediately after replanting in soil. The reality is that after the waxing procedure, the plant needs rehabilitation. Now begins the intensive leaf-growing phase, which is most important for next year’s success.

Place the pot on the brightest windowsill, preferably south-facing, and begin regular watering and fertilizing with complex fertilizers high in potassium and phosphorus. Through its long, sword-shaped leaves, the bulb performs photosynthesis and gradually rebuilds nutrient reserves. This process will eventually induce the new flower stalks. If you see the plant producing leaf after leaf, it means it has successfully taken root and is recovering.

If you have a garden, balcony, or at least an open terrace, your former waxed amaryllis should spend the summer outdoors. Once the danger of frost passes, the plant can be taken outside. Some professional gardeners even recommend removing the plant from its pot and planting it directly in open ground in a fertile garden spot with partial shade. Fresh air, natural temperature fluctuations, and sunlight may increase the bulb size, strengthen it, and give it a dark green, healthy tone over several months. During this period, it’s important not to let the plant dry out completely. Also, you should guard the bulb against slugs and snails, which love juicy amaryllis leaves.

Dormancy Period: How to Prepare Amaryllis for Rest

As autumn approaches, usually in late September or early October, amaryllis must be given rest, which in nature corresponds to the dry season. If the plant remains green and is watered continuously, its internal biological clock will become disrupted, and it will stop forming flower buds.

Begin gradually reducing watering until the leaves naturally start yellowing, withering, and eventually completely drying. When the foliage becomes dry, carefully cut it off, and move the pot with the bulb to a dark, cool, and dry place. Ideally, the place should be a basement or cooler storage area where the temperature ranges between ten and fifteen degrees Celsius. This dormancy phase should last no less than eight to twelve weeks—this is a crucial time when future flower buds form inside the bulb.

Awakening and a New Cycle

After a long, peaceful rest, usually in January, you’ll notice your former waxed amaryllis announcing its desire to return to life. A small, pointed green tip emerges from the bulb’s top—either a new flower stalk or the first pair of leaves. This is a sign it’s time to return the plant to the room, replace the top layer of soil if needed, and begin watering with lukewarm water.

Interestingly, an amaryllis rescued from wax and properly cared for often blooms even more abundantly in its second year with larger flowers than when you first purchased it. Now it has strong roots and is fully nourished. Thus, your once disposable interior decoration becomes a long-lived family plant, bringing joy each winter.